MANILA—President Ferdinand Marcos Jr. has officially vetoed a bill that would have declared Pampanga as the Culinary Capital of the Philippines, saying the move lacked historical basis, failed to meet key performance indicators, and could spark resentment among other provinces known for their own proud culinary traditions.

In a statement, Marcos acknowledged Pampanga’s well-earned reputation for its “diverse and flavorful dishes, traditional cooking methods, and strong culture of food innovation.” However, he argued that the bill failed to account for the broader diversity of Filipino cuisine.

“The Philippine culinary arts draw their origins from various cultures but display regional characteristics. Our regions contribute their indigenous dishes with certain recipes that are best done in the areas of origin of their ingredients,” Marcos explained.

The bill, authored by Senator Lito Lapid through Senate Bill No. 29797, aimed to boost Pampanga’s tourism and solidify its reputation as a food powerhouse. It was strongly lobbied by Center for Kapampangan Studies (CKS) Director Robert Tantingco.

Despite the rejection, Pampanga remains widely celebrated for its culinary heritage, with iconic dishes like sisig, bringhe, and tocino earning it a top spot in Philippine gastronomy.

No meant to downplay – Marcos

For many Kapampangans, the veto feels like a snub. The province has long been hailed as the country’s food mecca, with deeply rooted cooking traditions and a reputation for bold flavors.

Marcos, however, insists the move is not meant to downplay Pampanga’s contributions but rather to recognize the broader culinary diversity of the Philippines.

“I hope our kabalens understand the wisdom behind this veto,” he said. “Our diversity is our strength.”

The veto quickly sparked debate, with some defending the move as a recognition of the country’s culinary diversity.

Dishing out debate

Marcos’ veto echoes concerns raised by food historians and culinary experts, who argue that Philippine cuisine is too varied to be defined by a single “capital.” Food historian Ige Ramos noted that the concept of a national cuisine is “contentious” in a country as geographically and culturally diverse as the Philippines.

“Even designating one region as a culinary capital is contentious and not acceptable,” Ramos wrote.

Chef Jam Melchor, an advocate for Filipino food heritage, said the focus should be on “ensuring a stronger, more sustainable future for Filipino food and the communities that bring it to life” rather than chasing titles.

The final bite

With the bill dead, the question remains: should the Philippines have an official culinary capital at all? Or is the true essence of Filipino cuisine found in the sum of its parts—from the usual adobo to the rich laing of Bicol, Humba of Eastern Visayas, and the tyula itum of Bangsamoro?

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